The Great Smoky Mountains

By Trish Milburn

 

The seemingly endless ridges of the Great Smoky Mountains have a mystical, magical quality about them. One look at them from afar and they call to you like Mother Nature’s siren. Maybe it’s the “fog” shrouding the peaks, maybe it’s the lush carpet of green rolling into the distance, or perhaps it’s a sense that these mountains have a deep history that ties them to the cultures of the Cherokee, the Scots and the Irish. Whatever the reason, the rounded mountains, cool streams, gorgeous wildflowers, impressive waterfalls, abundant wildlife and brilliant fall leaves make Great Smoky Mountains National Park in East Tennessee and Western North Carolina the most visited national park in the United States.

 

I’ve been to the Smoky Mountains several times, and each time I go I wish I could stay longer — long enough to venture into every beautiful nook and cranny of this beautiful area. The park is surrounded by gateway communities filled to the brim with all manner of touristy diversions – everything from aquariums to corndog stands – but the moment you enter the park, there’s a peace and quiet that descends and wraps you in nature’s bounty. Even during peak park visitation, when the roadways can be clogged, a hike into the backcountry will take you away from it all.

 

Flora and Fauna

 

The 800-square-mile park is one of the most biologically rich and diverse places on the planet. Scientific studies have identified more than 10,000 species of plants, animals and invertebrates here, and scientists believe there could be an astounding 90,000 more yet unidentified. The richness of the flora and fauna is due to many factors such as the abundant rainfall (more than anywhere else in the United States except the Pacific Northwest), its status as a refuge, the fact that about 95 percent of the park is forested and that many species flourished here after being driven south during the last ice age, and the wide range of elevations--from 850 feet above sea level to 6,642 feet at Clingman’s Dome. Because of its tremendous plant and animal life, the park has been designated an International Biosphere Reserve.

 

The Smokies are stunning year-round, but the spring and fall are the true showpiece times to visit. As the park begins to bloom and bud each year, a great time to visit is during the Spring Wildflower Pilgrimage, seven days of seminars, photo tours, natural history walks and art classes. As you hike some of the more than 850 miles of trails in the park, watch for white trillium, bloodroot, pink lady’s slipper, showy orchis, crested dwarf iris and dozens of other delicate and colorful blooms. A great guide to have with you during these hikes is the small-but-useful Wildflowers of the Smokies.

 

Spring isn’t the only time to enjoy wildflowers though. Different types bloom from March through October or the first frost.

 

The other time of year when the Smokies beckon is autumn, when all those tree-covered ridges are blanketed with oranges, reds and yellows. To identify the trees, from the first leafing out in the spring until the brilliance of fall, you might want to pack Trees of the Smokies.

 

 

Wildlife

 

While the park is home to more than 60 species of mammals, 200 varieties of birds, 50 types of native fish and 80 kinds of reptiles and amphibians, it’s signature animal is the black bear. About 1,800 of them live in the park so sightings are not uncommon, particularly on the trails. It’s a good idea to familiarize yourself with how to act and protect yourself in bear country prior to taking to the trails. The park rangers at the visitor centers will be more than happy to give you these useful tips.

 

A number of species that once called these mountains home were eradicated by hunting and other man-made challenges. The National Park Service has endeavored to reintroduce some of these, including the river otter, peregrine falcon and elk.

 

History

 

While much of the Smokies experience is a natural one, the human history of this area hasn’t been ignored. Until the National Park Service took over these lands in the 1930s, isolated farmsteads were scattered throughout them. Remnants of these farms and small communities are peppered throughout the park in the form of cabins, mills and the small historic settlement of Cades Cove, located in one of the most popular and lovely parts of the park.

 

The driving tour through Cades Cove is one of the park’s most popular attractions because the area is stunning.
Cades Cove hosts special events throughout the year which showcase how life was once lived here. Here we see horse and man working together to make sorghum molasses.

 

The park’s visitor centers, including a small one located at Cades Cove, offer the normal tourist items such as T-shirts and toys, but you’ll also find books about the early residents, be they the white settlers or the Cherokee who came before them. You’ll also be able to buy a variety of guidebooks, food items such as homemade jams and fruit butters, and postcards to send to those not fortunate enough to make the trip to the Great Smoky Mountains with you.

 

Recreational Opportunities

 

The Smokies are filled to the brim with recreational opportunities. In addition to hiking and touring by car, you might want to camp at one of the park’s 10 developed campgrounds or be a little more adventurous by camping in the backcountry. Some of the backcountry shelters also serve those trekking along the Appalachian Trail, the long-distance trail stretching from Georgia to Maine.

 

I love the sound of a rushing, mountain stream, and the park has plenty of those, many of them inviting you to skip rocks or read a book while sitting on a boulder.

Fishing, both from the bank and fly fishing mid-stream, are popular in the park, particularly since it’s one of the few wild trout habitats in the eastern half of the country.

 

If you enjoy horseback riding, the Smokies offer about 550 miles of trails open to horses. You can either rent a horse at one of four park stables or bring your own.

 

You’d be hard pressed to find a more beautiful area in which to picnic. Numerous picnic areas are scattered throughout the park. It is very important to note that you must obey the park’s food storage regulations if you are bringing food into the park. Bears are attracted to human food, and this attraction could lead to unnecessary altercations that end up hurting park visitors and possibly the euthanization of the bear.

 

If you’re an amateur or professional photographer, you could spend years within the park capturing its many wonders. With so much natural beauty surrounding you, it’ll be difficult to go home with bad vacation pictures.

 

Gateway Communities

 

There are several small towns that border the park, offering access, but the two main ones lie at either end of Highway 441 – Gatlinburg, Tennessee and Cherokee, North Carolina. Both offer lodging and restaurants as well as tourist attractions of their own.

 

Gatlinburg is home to Ripley’s Aquarium of the Smokies, a Ripley’s Believe It or Not, mini-golf courses, eateries ranging from nice restaurants serving steaks and seafood to sidewalk stands hawking foot-long corndogs and funnel cakes, lots of shopping—everything from kitschy trinkets to high-end art and sculptures, and a wide variety of other attractions. The mountains surrounding the town are filled with cabins and large chalets where you can kick back and fully enjoy your vacation after a day of playing tourist.

 

On the opposite side of the park, you’ll find similar tourist offerings, but you’ll also be able to immerse yourself in Cherokee culture since the town of

Cherokee sits on the Cherokee Indian Reservation also known as the Qualla

Boundary. This is the home of the Eastern Band of the Cherokee, the descendents of the Cherokee who hid in the mountains to avoid the removal to what became Oklahoma on the Trail of Tears. Make sure your schedule has time for visits to the Oconoluftee Indian Village, the Museum of the Cherokee Indian, the Qualla Arts and Crafts Mutual, and the Unto These Hills Outdoor Drama. The drama plays nightly, except Sundays, through Aug. 19 this year.

 

A third gateway community is Townsend, which bills itself as “The Peaceful Side of the Smokies”. It lives up to its name though it does offer visitors quaint shops, good eateries and a stretch of river great for innertube floats. It’s also the closest park entry point to Cades Cove.

 

Yes, I’m partial to the Great Smoky Mountains. But I think that after you visit, you will be too. Those mist-shrouded green peaks will call to you again and again, inviting you to come back and enjoy the embrace of Mother Nature.

 

 

 

For more information:

 

Great Smoky Mountains National Park: http://www.nps.gov/grsm/