Living the Good Life in California’s Napa Valley
By Terry McLaughlin
Fields rippling with leafy vines, quiet laughter skimming through sun-dappled picnic spots, Technicolor balloons drifting against a hazy blue sky, sandals
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A valley view from a terrace of Silverado Vineyards |
crunching over Tuscan-style courtyards, banks of lavender scenting warm breezes, wood smoke floating past the clink of crystal goblets. The sights, the sounds, the scents, and the tastes of California’s Napa Valley all contribute to a feeling of luxurious relaxation and indulgent romance.
A one-hour drive from San Francisco’s Golden Gate, Napa Valley is a jewel of a place devoted to the arts of wine-making and fine living. Gorgeous views, fabulous food, great shopping and, of course, a celebrated and concentrated dose of wine-tasting opportunities make it a popular destination, attracting several million visitors each year.
Bracketed by mountains, the valley stretches approximately 30 miles and ranges in width from five miles at Napa in the south to just a mile at Calistoga in the north. A mild maritime climate—warm days and cool nights—and special soils make the area perfect for growing many varieties of grapes.
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The Chateau at Rubicon Estate |
Within the Napa Valley appellation (an officially designated grape-growing region) are fourteen sub-appellations, each reflecting individual characteristics, which in turn enhance the various wines created there. Listen to the talk at any of the dozens of available winery tastings, and you’ll discover ways of describing food and drink that will have your mouth watering as quickly as the offerings at the local restaurants. And if you’re worried that all that wine-tasting will cause transportation problems, there are several limousine services and bus tours available to make your tour a smooth and easy one.
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Aging barrels stored in the Chateau at Rubicon Estate. The gravel-covered floor can be sprayed with water to help create and retain humidity. |
Want to find out how the award-winning wines of the Napa Valley are made? Many of the more than 300 wineries offer tours. St. Supery features a self-guided Wine Discovery Center with interactive displays. Beringer offers a selection of narrated walks that include a bit of local history and glimpses inside some of the beautiful historic buildings on site. Visitors to Francis Ford Coppola’s Rubicon Estate can view an attractive, museum-style presentation of the estate’s fascinating story, along with an entertaining collection of such movie memorabilia as Marlon Brando’s desk from The Godfather, Robert Duvall’s surf board from Apocalypse Now, Jeff Bridges’ car from Tucker, and costumes from Bram Stoker’s Dracula.
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| One of many interesting displays inside the Chateau at Rubicon Estate. Guided tours provide insights into the winery’s proud traditions. |
Just inside the main entry to the Chateau at Rubicon Estate, an elegant stairway leads to a second floor collection of Coppola family movie memorabilia. The stairway, handcrafted of exotic hardwoods, was constructed without nails or screws. |
Like the wines that are produced there, each of the towns of the Napa Valley has its own flavor. Napa, the county seat, contains more than half the area’s population and is a reasonably priced base for wine country explorations. A useful visitor’s center is located near the pleasant shopping area and Victorian-era homes of the city center.
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Visitors at the V. Sattui Winery enjoy the winery gardens and grounds. |
A visit to V. Sattui can include a picnic lunch with foods from the winery’s Cheese Shop and Deli. |
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The annual Father’s Day car show on the grounds of Vintage 1870. |
Yountville, a few miles to the north, was founded in the 1830s by the first American to settle in the region--the first to plant grape vines. Its small-town charm can easily be enjoyed on foot. Worth a visit is Yountville’s landmark Vintage 1870, a collection of boutiques and eateries within the historic Groezinger Winery complex. While you’re there, arrange a ride in a hot-air balloon to view the valley from a wicker gondola.
North of Yountville is the center of the valley and the wine industry, St. Helena. Its main street is lined with fun, upscale boutiques such as Woodhouse Chocolates, where decadent delicacies are boxed in ribboned, Tiffany-blue containers. And while the Napa area is famous for its wines, its olive oil and vinegars are also world-class. Stop by the St. Helena Olive Oil Company to sample some of the gourmet items available.
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The Beringer Winery offers several tours, including one that ends with a tasting inside the historic mansion. |
Visitors to Beringer enjoy shopping for wine-related items in the mansion’s stained-glass-lit entry. |
Nearby is the California branch of the Culinary Institute of America. Visitors can make reservations for a spectacular meal in a wonderful setting.
At the northernmost end of the valley is Calistoga. Situated near thermal springs, this is truly a spa town. Enjoy a mud bath, a massage, a relaxing meal, and the low-key valley night life.
One of the best things about a visit to Napa is the journey itself. Every road that rings or crosses the valley offers breath-taking views of softly-hued mountains, ruler-lined vineyards, amazing wineries, graceful towns--all the natural and architectural beauty of the region. It’s the ultimate Sunday drive, every day of the week, every season of the year.
General information about the Napa Valley:
http://www.napavalleyonline.com/directory/wsaboutnv.html
A great introduction to the history and towns of the Napa Valley.
http://www.napavalley.com/maps
A handy, interactive map shows the main roads, towns, attractions, wineries, shopping, and dining possibilities available.
http://www.napavintners.com/index.asp
The Napa Valley vintners describe the area’s appellations, providing maps and information about the wineries, tastings, tours, and picnic areas.
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Younger visitors to Rubicon Estate may enjoy guiding a bateau through the fountain on grounds inspired by the Luxembourg Garden of Paris. |
A winery sampler:
A Historic District listed on the National Register of Historic Places, Beringer is the Napa Valley’s oldest winery in continuous operation, and its pride in its heritage is evident. While checking out tour possibilities, don’t miss the list of tempting recipes pairing wine with food--one of Beringer’s interests.
Well worth the price of your visitor’s passport, a visit to Francis Ford Coppola’s Rubicon Estate is something to treasure.
Interested in wine-making? Stop by St. Supery’s Wine Discovery Center to learn about viticulture. Educational displays tell the story of wine and the process of creating it, world-wide.
http://www.silveradovineyards.com/index.html
The pictures don’t do it justice--only a visit will do. Still, an online peek will give you a virtual taste of the views from Silverado Vineyards.
Stop by V. Sattui to pick up a bottle of their wine--sold only on the premises and their Web site--and assemble a delicious picnic lunch in the deli to enjoy beneath the spreading trees of the picnic grounds.
http://www.artesawinery.com/index1.html
If you can’t manage a visit, make some time for a virtual tour of Artesa Winery. Stunning sculptures and waterworks provide a backdrop for information about the Carneros district and a museum of antique wine-production tools.
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A typical Napa Valley view from the tasting room patio at Turnbull Winery. |
Special treats:
Located in Yountville, Vintage 1870 is a historic complex containing clever boutiques and places to eat. Visit the site for a wonderful photo gallery and interesting facts about this fascinating property, and sigh over descriptions of two of the valley’s best places to stay.
The California branch of the Culinary Institute of America offers cooking demonstrations and world-class meals. Make a reservation for a dinner you’ll never forget.
http://www.woodhousechocolate.com
The inside of Woodhouse Chocolate is as delicious as the chocolates on sale, a confection of European style and flair. Want a special treat? Have some shipped to you.
Since she doesn’t drink wine, Terry McLaughlin enjoys the ambience—and plays chauffeur—on her family’s frequent visits to the Napa wine country.
Terry’s
September release, MAKE-BELIEVE COWBOY, is the first of her new
three-part “Bright Lights, Big Sky” series for Harlequin
Superromance. Look for the next two books in the series in
February and September of 2007.
